After viewing different options, we decided to take a train from Montpellier where we had spent a week, to Nice and than take an overnight train from Nice, France to Venice, Italy. We had delayed making arrangements thinking we might be able to get together with a cousin who lives in Italy but that didn't happen, so by the time Pat made train reservations all of the 1st class Eurailpass sleeping compartments were full. We ended up with a "couchette" not really knowing what that meant - now we know.
Our train from Montpellier to Nice was supposed to arrive 1 hour before our train from Nice to Venice departed, but Voila! the train was delayed (the French conductor's comment - "It ees normal - heh, heh, heh") and we arrived in Nice five minutes before the train left. We sprinted down the platform in the rain, glanced at the board to find the right track and sprinted again for the train. Found the right track and tried to find our car number but with seconds to spare we just climbed on a car behind several young Americans. Chaos in the passageway; none of us could find our car. Finally a bored conductor looked at my ticket and said "You are on the Rome part. Venice - five or six cars that way." Gridlock in the aisle - nobody moved for awile until some people stepped inside compartments. Finally we pushed ahead - still no sign of our car. I pulled a paper sign off the window and found we were close to our car.
Finally our car but what a surprise. A couchette it turns out is a chair car that converts to bunks at night and is reserved to whoever wants them. We shared our couchette with a ski instructer from Colorado who was taking a break from working and traveling with her New Zealander boyfriend who was taking a break after completing his degree and met the ski instructer in Colorado - they took the top two bunks taking pity on the old folk. Our fifth couchette companion was Marisa who either lived in France and was traveling to visit her family in Croatia or lived in Croatia and had been visiting in France - language barrier prevented any in depth conversation. Pat and Marisa had the bottom bunks and I had a middle bunk - we could have had a sixth person! I felt like I was either on an operating table, in a scene from "Coma" or a sailor on a ship. We were given paper pillow covers and paper sheets.
Pat & I watched the lights of Monaco from the window on the train. Then to bed - I obviously got some sleep because I did not hear him get up and get off the train in Genoa where we waited for an hour. He also got some sleep after Genoa. We arrived in Venice at 8:30 and found our way to our hotel and a very welcome shower.
Tomorrow we take an overnight to Vienna but not a chouchette!
Comments (4)
Well, the difference between the night train from Nice and Venice and that from Venice to Vienna was the difference between a nightmare and a dream. It helped, of course, that we were at the station in plenty of time to see the make up of the train and locate where our car would be. As soon as we got on the car, there were two "hostesses" to direct us to our cabine and assist with the luggage. We had a three-person cabine, but we were the only occupants. There was a sink, a little table, plenty of space for luggage. On the table were two kiwis and a couple of bottles of mineral water. Around 11pm we had the hostess/conductor redo the cabine for sleeping. Breakfast was included, but since we got to Vienna so early (6:30am), we were given the option of a coupon for breakfast in the Vienna train station (Suedbahnhof), which we accepted. But we were served coffee on the train around 5:45.
We have located a reasonable priced (I think) apartment for the next 4 nights here in Vienna, and bought a couple of tickets for a Mozart/Strauss concert this evening. We don't get access to our apartment until 1pm, so we're hanging out in a cafe (Cynthia) and in an internet cafe (me).
It's nice to be back in a country where I can talk to the locals.
Posted by Patrick | November 1, 2004 3:49 AM
Posted on November 1, 2004 03:49
Today was interesting, in a bad sort of way. Cynthia wanted to go to Venice to see the church where Vivaldi was Choirmaster (or similar) for a long time. When we awoke, the skies were pouring down, and everywhere was gray. After breakfast it lightened up a little, and we headed into Venice, the island, around noon. By the time we got there, there was some evidence of the little yellow ball in the sky, but not much. But the piazza where our bus takes us and where we catch the initial vaporetto (water taxi run by the city of Venice) was crammed with people. We finally got close enough to the vaporetto loading point to see that the water in the Grand Canal seemed to be about 12 inches higher than it was yesterday. Because of all the people we decided to just walk to the next vaporetto station. So off we trudged. When we got to the first bridge, it was clear that the water was significantly higher than yesterday - places we walked yesterday were now under 6 inches or so of water. It was impossible to make any progress to the next vaporetto station, and we decided to go back on the bus in the direction of our hotel and spend the day in Mestre, the mainland part of Venice. We managed to kill about 5 hours there, eating and drinking, and have now returned to the hotel to reclaim our luggage. In about 2 hours we will take a cab into the Mestre train station, where we will begin our 2nd great overnight train adventure. Since we have a 1st class cabine reserved, we are hopeful that it won't actually be adventurous, and we will arrive tomorrow morning about 7am in Vienna.
Posted by Patrick | October 31, 2004 10:20 AM
Posted on October 31, 2004 10:20
Somehow I imagine that you two have traveled so many times abroad that you wouldn't experience many more "adventures." However, it is these little "adventures" that seem to make the memories remain so vivid long after the ordinary, run-of-the-mill experiences have faded. Hope you experience many more "adventures" before November 13. Sounds like you're having a great time!
Posted by Kathleen | October 30, 2004 9:41 AM
Posted on October 30, 2004 09:41
My, that does bring back some memories! I remember the first night of our very first trip, when I was 11, sleeping on paper-covered pillows underneath paper sheets. And I also remember buying those three blankets the next day, one of which is in my house to this day.
And what is it with trips and sprinting to catch trains? At least you got on the train, unlike our experience in Weymouth. I can just imagine you all in those bunks like sardines. Not exactly what I pictured for your vacation .
Sounds like you're having a lot of fun. I tried to call you at the Venice number but I think I needed the Italy country code, and by the time I had a chance to look it up, it was too late to call. Mainly I would have just said that I am glad you guys are having a good time!
Posted by Daughter | October 30, 2004 9:01 AM
Posted on October 30, 2004 09:01